THE Throw of the dice this week is on the road.
Scenery racing by at 60 mph, on a two lane highway, saddled between fresh morning pastures, and broken down double-wides. A New Mexican patchwork of serenity and simplicity. On Highway 84 out of Santa Fe, we pass through the one-blink town of Chama. During the summer tourists flock here to ride the Tupeltec Train through the mountains and fish in the Rio Grande. The window sign of the coffee house advertises Espresso, but the paint is worn thin, and the letters breaking up. The sidewalk flower pots are filled with cigarette butts, and the newspaper stands are empty. There is an old fashioned gas station, closed for the winter, and just beyond are the train tracks, and a stationary train. That’s where I got the idea of living on a train. I could settle down in a train, like Jim West in the television program from the sixties, The Wild Wild West. Movement is what gives me comfort. Some of us just cannot sit still. We try to cushion ourselves in with big windows and heaps of scenery: fireplaces, and fresh flowers, music, books, and home theater. What lies beyond home organization is a world of surprises and that’s what we keep reaching for.
Outside of Chama the road grows narrower, and signs of life diminish with the exception of the crows, and the solitary underfed horse staring at a fence, looking like the loneliest creature on the face of the earth. The scenery transforms into a sketch of poetry as the sky suddenly turns white, and the hillsides are caked in snow frosting. We were on our way to Pagaosa Springs; a small town just across the continental divide into Colorado. The Springs Spa & Salon boasts of having European fashioned mineral springs.
“That’s it?” SC asked.
“Yes, I guess so. What’s it doing IN A PARKING LOT? The website made it look like we were in the mountains.”
“ Good marketing.” He said.
“ Oh no, this is awful.” I snapped. But I caught myself. You know how words come back at you with meaning, and you have to adjust yourself. I looked the place over and thought, I’ll make this an adventure. I will not complain or snub my nose because I’m here, in the cup of Colorado and it’s beautiful.
“ The springs are public?” SC denounced.
I looked over at the three-tiered sculpted hillside; pools of water connected by walkways, waterfalls, and this wake of steam rising. It was the lusciousness of a European spa, except, the bather’s were beer-bellied rednecks and saloon sloppy women, wearing stretched out bathing suits that hung from their skin. Children were running back and forth, and Soaring Crow didn’t look too happy.
“ I’m not going into those baths.” He snapped.
“ The hotel has its own private area; it will be better.”
“ It’s like getting into a bathtub with a bunch of strangers.”
“ Well, I’ll throw some bleach in before. ”
We headed into the reception area of the Springs Spa & Salon. A man dressed in Spa-white was gnawing on a chewy nutrition bar. Before he finished swallowing, he said, “ What I do for yer folks?”
He leaned over the counter and chewed, while SC explained we were checking into the Spa. The Spa smelled of chlorine, and I started to laugh. What I had imagined, was the Sonoma Mission Inn, or Roosevelt Spa in Saratoga Springs.
“I can’t wait to see the room.” I said.
There are two types of getaways; first class and adventurous, this was less than adventurous, it was shoddy. We unloaded and went for a drive through town. The shop with the Antiques sign drew us in first. It smelled like acerbic spring water was oozing out of the walls. I looked around; drawing my breath in, to avoid a dust storm. Cowboy mugs, saddles, fiesta flatware, mantelpiece trinkets and dusty smudged books were stacked on shabby boxes and wooden carts. Not much to capture the eye, except the saleswoman. She was built like an old door. I imagined she was young once, and had a softer edge, now she moved in wooden strides, and her eyes were plucked of sentimentality. Maybe she came from a mining family, and they were hardened at an early age. I imagined what she was thinking of me. It sort of slipped out when I opened the door. She hadn’t expected me to say thank you, and when she met my eyes, hers were raising heck with my attire. Outside, the snow continued to dust the town with a bit of whitened cleanliness.
“ Where are we eating tonight.” SC asked.
“ Oh I found a place that sounds interesting, The Old Miner’s Lodge.”
“ It sounds like we should drive by first.”
We drove down the main road, and I looked through the dining guide. The short list was the kind you’d expect in an old mining town, that Robert Redford hadn’t discovered.
“ It’s a steakhouse with a salad bar.” I assured SC.
“ Let’s find something else. I don’t want to bathe and eat with the same people.”
“There isn’t anything else but what the receptionist suggested, Eddie’s Grill, it’s her favorite place.”
“ Because her father-in-law, or half-sister owns it.”
We went looking for Eddie’s and along the way I noticed a sign for Keyah Grande. It was the kind of sign that eluded, exclusive, so I suggested we drive up. Outside a large menacing iron gate, we rang the digital keyboard and the Chef answered the phone. He said to come up. We passed through the gate and slowly eased the car up an unpaved road, and entered what looked like safari country. There were elk and deer wandering inside gated pastures, fat and sleek-coated, without visible fear or alarm, they just seemed to nod at us.
We drove past a sign for horses, and I thought, I’d wished we stayed here. At the top of the mountain, a plateau surfaced and a two story Spanish colonial building jolted out of the ground. We were surrounded by mountains, three cars, and a clubhouse attached to a suspended deck that looked like the wing of an airplane. SC immediately dashed for the edge. I lingered back closer to center. We were raised to new euphoric vistas, set above the San Juan Mountains with streaks of snow edged between pine trees and shafts of light. A cold breeze that John Cage would have recorded brushed through the trees.
We went inside the hotel and discovered a palatial home-museum. A woman greeted us.
“ Hi com’on in. We’re just taking these folks through the rooms; would you like to join us.”
“Yes,” SC said.
“ No.” I answered, and whispered to SC,“I’m still catching my breath.
We followed another young friendly woman to the cocktail lounge. It was the sort of place you’d curl your legs under and hold the glass as if you owned the house. Darkened cherry-wood paneling and leather wrapped a room with built-in everything, and made it feel gracefully masculine. We sat on the sofa sipping wine and forgot about Pagosa Springs.
“Can we have dinner here tonight?” I asked without willing to accept anything less.
“You bet we can. I’m not leaving until they throw me out.”
“Will you be joining us for dinner?” The cocktail waitress asked.
“Yes, we’d love to.”
“I’ll show you the dining room.”
“How many rooms are there in the hotel?” I asked.
“ We call it a guest house. There are eight rooms.”
“ Are they all booked?” I asked.
“ I’d have to check; we may have one.”
SC looked at me expectantly.
“ First I’ll show you the dining room,” and she took us through the main parlor, a salon of European taste dignified with a gold trimmed piano, original oil paintings, tapestries, and enough natural light to take a sunbath.
“ How many acres go with the guest house?” I asked.
“ Four thousand.”
“ Eight rooms and four thousand acres.” I repeated. That makes some kind of statement.
We found out the rooms were $500.00 a night and it was better to go with the package deal; $800.00 including all meals. It reminded me of what I read in the WSJ; about executive holidays, and the kind of money that passes from one pocket to the next.
After a peek at the menu, and finding the prices comparable to any fine dining, we finished our wine, and drifted outside like two beggars who’d just found a gracious host. We decided to go back to Pagosa and shower.
“ I can’t wait to go back and use the scratchy towels and cheap soap.”
“It’s more fun this way, it’s an adventure.” I said. The funny thing is; I wasn’t fibbing or pretending. The adventure in me felt atrophied and I was thankful I was out of town and on the road. Even if it was a tiny stiff room without mints on the pillow, I knew we’d be laughing ourselves to sleep. To be continued. Any dice to throw: Email: folliesls@aol.com